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High yield cultivation of pepper
Planting afforestation can also be referred to as reforestation. It is most effective to plant seedlings during the spring and winter seasons, especially when pepper buds and sprouts begin to emerge in the spring. Before and after winter, to prevent freezing damage, it's advisable to cut and plant the trees, then bury the trunks. After the thaw in the following spring, the mounds should be removed.
The main planting season is early autumn, coinciding with the harvest period. Pits with a diameter of 70 cm and a depth of 50–60 cm should be dug in advance. The soil should be leveled, and planting should take place in the autumn. Place 8–10 seeds per hole, and cover them with about 1 cm of soil. Seedlings will emerge the next spring. During summer, especially on rainy days, seedlings can be planted simultaneously. When selecting seedlings for direct sowing, choose sunny or semi-sunny slopes in the lower part of the hillside. Sandy loam soil is ideal for optimal growth.
After planting pepper, weeding should be done 2–3 times a year, and irrigation should be provided promptly during dry periods. Pepper has a shallow root system, which makes it vulnerable to competition from weeds and other trees. Without proper weeding, the plants may struggle to thrive. After the fruiting period, timely soil cultivation and fertilization are essential. In areas where irrigation is limited, proper fertilization becomes crucial for stable and high yields. Pig manure is considered the best type of farmyard manure. After 10–15 years of growth, each tree should receive around 25 kg of fertilizer through ring trenching. Additionally, intercropping peppers with legumes and green manure crops can enhance soil fertility and increase income.
Zanthoxylum bungeanum typically starts sprouting in late March, shows buds in mid-April, and blooms in early May, with flowers fading by mid-summer. If proper management is not maintained during this time, many flowers and fruits may drop prematurely. To help preserve the fruit, the following measures can be taken: 1) spray 10 mg/kg gibberellin during the flowering stage; 2) apply 0.3% phosphoric acid at the flowering stage, along with 0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.3% urea solution; 3) every 10 days after spraying, use 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.7% urea solution.
Pepper is a light-loving species with strong branching, which can lead to dense canopies and poor internal lighting. Proper pruning can improve this situation. After the fruit harvest, pruning should be done before new growth begins in the following spring. Young trees and fruit-bearing trees should be pruned in the fall, while weak or old trees should be pruned in the spring.
(1) Shaping methods: There are three common shapes—triangular, plexiform, and naturally happy. 1) The triangular shape involves cutting back the tree to leave three main branches in different directions, ideally one facing north, one southwest, and one southeast. The base angle should be maintained at 60–70 degrees, with each main branch having 4–7 lateral branches. This structure allows for abundant light and a large canopy, leading to higher yields. 2) The plexiform shape develops from multiple branches growing from the base after planting. After 4–5 years, 5–6 main branches form. This shape produces early results but can become crowded over time, leading to aging if light conditions are inadequate. It’s suitable for densely planted orchards. 3) The naturally happy shape involves leaving the first lateral branch at about 30 cm after planting, forming a well-balanced structure within 4–5 years. This method promotes steady and consistent production.
(2) Pruning techniques vary depending on the tree’s growth stage. 1) For young trees, the principle of balancing growth and fruiting should be followed. In the first year after planting, a high cut is recommended, and the trunk base should be removed before budding in the second year. Cut branches at 50 cm and retain 5–7 main branches evenly. Remove crowded, thin, weak, diseased, or overly long branches. 2) For fruit-bearing trees, gradually remove excess branches, focus on shaping the crown, and carefully trim inner branches. Remove pests, crossing branches, and unnecessary growth. Shorten vegetative branches and allow slow release of growth. After reducing the fruiting groups, allow space for new shoots to grow and shorten them in the following year. 3) For old trees, perform sparse pruning, removing large, weak, or unproductive branches. Focus on rejuvenating the tree by cutting back old and weak branches and encouraging new growth. For trees that need full renewal, prioritize using leggy branches and updating the skeleton structure.