How to make a good rabbit cage for saving feed?

Rabbit cages are places where rabbits live. Making a good rabbit cage not only contributes to the healthy growth of rabbits, but also reduces feed and labor costs. According to the author's practice and summarizing the experiences of many rabbit farmers, we now have a few opinions on the production of rabbit cages for everyone, especially readers who are ready to make rabbit cages.

Specifications: 40 centimeters in front of the rabbit cage, 78 centimeters high, 60 centimeters deep in front and back, and 55 centimeters wide to the left and right. Such specifications can basically meet the needs of various adult rabbits. The bottom of the cage is not less than 25 cm above the ground, and the distance between the upper cage and the lower cage is 10 cm, followed by 12 cm, and the number of layers is not more than 3 layers. The total height (the distance from the upper floor of the upper cage) is about 185 cm. Too high is not only a waste of material, but also is not conducive to observation, feeding and cleaning.

Material: The cage wall is cast with cement and gravel (the ratio of cement, fish sand and gravel is 1:2:3). The cement board should be smooth and strong, not hang hair, bite resistance, thickness 4 cm. The front door is made of steel (with bamboo bite resistance) and the spacing between bars is 3 cm. The backboard is made of cement and sandstone, with 3 empty spaces in the middle and a neutral density of 3cm. The bottom plate is made of bamboo pieces. The width of the bamboo piece is about 3 cm. There is no gap between the 1/3 and 1/2 of the front part. The gap between the back 1/3 and the 1/2 piece of bamboo is 1 cm. (If the rabbit is found to excrete in the front part, A brick can be placed in the defecation site to occupy the position until the rabbit removes the brick after the defecation. The floor should not be designed as a fixed type and should be withdrawn at any time for repair and cleaning. The excrement board is casted with cement and gravel with a thickness of 3 cm. The interior can generally not be reinforced. The length of the bottom layer (that is, the top cover of the bottom cage) is 75 cm and the middle layer is 77 cm. When installed, the wall of the cage is 5 cm in front of the door. In this way, the feces and urine discharged from the upper layer do not contaminate the lower layer.

Drinking fountain installation: The automatic drinking fountain is installed on the backboard, and the water pipes are parallel to the outside (rabbit catches and bites the water pipe). Such as self-made drinking fountains, it should be hung on the front door, easy to observe the water level and timely replenishment.

Cartridge installation: The cartridge is best made out of the box. When the rabbit eats material, the head can not protrude from the reinforced door and it is also convenient for artificial feeding. It is also possible to place the cartridge in the door, but to maintain a certain height to prevent rabbits from digging. Metal cages are not used as much as possible: Metal cages are mostly made of galvanized steel wire with cold-drawn steel. This brings with it four problems. First, it is prone to rust and will not be used in a few years. In the long run, the cost will be higher. The second is that the bottom of the tool cage is fixed as a whole, and it is difficult to clean up once it has been stuffed with coarse material and feces. Third, when the front and back sides of the installation are installed with steel reinforcement bottoms, it is very inconvenient to fix and replace them. Fourth, the rabbit's foot contact surface is small, rabbits are prone to foot dermatitis when they are exposed to metal, and it is difficult to cure foot dermatitis.

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