First, prepare the facilities and seedbed. Monolithic greenhouses are covered with plastic films and shade nets to create a controlled environment. A ground cutting seedbed is established after leveling the ground inside the shed. The seedbed should be about 100 cm wide, with a baffle around it that is 10-12 cm high. A layer of fine sand is placed at the bottom for proper drainage. The cutting medium can consist of a mix of vermiculite and peat, or clean yellow soil combined with fine sand. Both the seedbed and the substrate should be sterilized using fungicides and insecticides to prevent diseases and pests. Second, take cuttings. This process can be done in early March (spring), early June (summer), or early September (autumn). Cuttings should be 4-6 cm long, leaving 1-2 healthy leaves. If the leaves are too long, they should be trimmed to about 4 cm. Before inserting the cuttings, they should be treated with a rooting agent. Insert them 3 cm deep, with a density of 400 per square meter. After planting, water the area thoroughly and spray the leaves with a mixture of carbendazim and anthrax solution to protect against diseases. Third, post-insertion management. 1. Provide shade to the cuttings until they germinate, maintaining a shading rate of over 75%. Once the red leaf heather cuttings start growing, regular foliar feeding is essential, which can be done together with disease prevention. During the callus formation and early root growth stage, apply a nitrogen fertilizer solution at a concentration of 50 ppm. Increase the concentration to 100-150 ppm once the roots begin to develop more significantly, just before transplanting. 2. Strengthen pest control after the cuttings are inserted. At the end of the cutting phase, spray the plants with a diluted solution of carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl, repeating every 5-7 days. After rain, it's important to apply fungicides promptly. Anthracnose is a common issue during the cutting stage, and it should be managed regularly. Effective treatments include anthraquinone fumigants, mancozeb, and chlorothalonil. Insect pests like aphid and moth larvae can be controlled using imidacloprid and beta-cypermethrin. After about 15 days, some cuttings will begin to form roots. At this point, reduce the moisture level in the substrate to around 40%. When over 50% of the cuttings have developed roots, gradually open the greenhouse for ventilation and reduce the shading to about 50%. Once all the cuttings are fully rooted and more than 50% of their leaves have turned, remove the shade nets and plastic films, allowing full light exposure to begin the hardening-off process for the seedlings. Fourth, harden off and conserve the seedlings. Once the roots grow beyond 3 cm, transfer the seedlings to the Yameng area for further strengthening. Use a medium composed of 80% peat and 20% perlite. Peat should be adjusted with lime to balance the pH and add calcium. Water the seedlings regularly, but avoid overwatering. They are vulnerable to frost, so it's best to keep them in the greenhouse during winter, reducing watering and avoiding fertilization. During hot summers, provide shade to protect them from extreme heat. Water only when necessary—see dry, see wet. Fertilize by mixing 4 kg of slow-release fertilizer per cubic meter of medium. Apply a liquid nitrogen-based fertilizer diluted 700-1000 times periodically, depending on the seedling’s growth stage. Vector-borne Diseases Bioantibody Biotechnology Co., Ltd. , https://www.bioantibodymedical.com