First, prepare the facilities and seedbed. Monolithic greenhouses are covered with plastic films and shade nets to create an optimal environment. A ground cutting seedbed is established after leveling the floor inside the shed. The seedbed should be approximately 100 cm wide, with a baffle around it that is 10–12 cm high. A layer of fine sand is placed at the bottom of the seedbed for proper drainage. The cutting medium can consist of a mix of vermiculite and peat, or clean yellow soil combined with fine sand. It’s essential to sterilize both the seedbed and the substrate using fungicides and insecticides to prevent diseases and pests from affecting the cuttings. Second, take the cuttings. The best times to insert them are in early March (spring), early June (summer), or early September (autumn). Each cutting should be 4–6 cm long, with 1–2 healthy leaves remaining. If the leaves are too long, they should be trimmed to about 4 cm. Before inserting, the cuttings are treated with a rooting hormone to enhance root development. The depth of each cutting should be 3 cm, and the density should be around 400 cuttings per square meter. After planting, water the cuttings immediately and spray their leaves with a mixture of carbendazim and anthracnose control solution to protect against fungal infections. Third, post-insertion care. Shade the cuttings until they start to germinate, maintaining a shading rate of over 75%. During this period, foliar feeding is often performed, which can be done together with disease prevention. From the formation of callus to the growth of young roots, apply a nitrogen fertilizer solution at a concentration of 50 ppm. As the root system begins to develop, increase the nitrogen concentration to 100–150 ppm before transplanting. Fourth, pest and disease control. After planting, closely monitor for pests and diseases. At the end of the cutting process, spray the plants with a diluted solution of carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl, repeating every 5–7 days. After rain, it's crucial to apply fungicides promptly. Anthracnose is a common issue during the cutting stage, so regular applications of anthraquinone fume, mancozeb, or chlorothalonil are recommended. For insect pests such as aphid and moth larvae, use imidacloprid or beta-cypermethrin for effective control. About 15 days after planting, some cuttings will begin to form roots. At this point, reduce the moisture level in the substrate to around 40%. When more than 50% of the cuttings have developed roots, gradually remove the greenhouse cover and reduce the shading to about 50%. Once all cuttings are fully rooted and more than half of their leaves have turned green, slowly remove the shade nets and plastic covers, allowing full light exposure to promote healthy seedling growth. Fifth, hardening off and conservation. Once the seedlings have established strong roots—typically when the roots are over 3 cm long—they can be moved to the Yameng area for further hardening. The growing medium should be a mix of 80% peat and 20% perlite, with lime added to adjust the pH. Water the seedlings regularly but avoid overwatering. To protect them from frost, it's best to keep them in a greenhouse during winter, reducing water and stopping fertilization. In summer, provide shade during the hottest periods. Water only when necessary, and fertilize by mixing 4 kg of slow-release fertilizer per cubic meter of medium. Apply soluble nitrogen-based fertilizers at a dilution of 700–1000 times, depending on the seedlings’ growth stage. Bioantibody Biotechnology Co., Ltd. , https://www.bioantibodymedical.com